Gaijin Gunpla

Oh boy! These legs are something else. Lots of stuff going on and lots of information and pics coming your way.

With a PG, more than any Gunpla kit I’ve done previously, you really need to have your runners laid out and organized before you start building because you definitely don’t want to have to go through 55 different runners to find the one you are looking for while you have a half built section of a leg waiting.

Note: the manual says to build everything ‘x2’ as the only difference between the right and left legs is the part you assemble last which joins the skirt.

The first part of the leg you construct is the upper leg near the knee.

Again you are inserting the tiny non-polycap rings.

Up next, another plated silver piece! Knee piston.

A few more pieces are used to hold the silver plated piece in place while allowing it to slide as the knee bends.

Wait. This piece…

It’s bending.. but.. it’s not the knee. It’s just above the knee.

At the top you add the shiny gold frame pieces that will be exposed when the joint is flexed while the bottom has you assemble the part that will be joining the other leg section which is as yet unassembled.

Like so.

More shiny gold parts above and less than shiny below. One leg, three different colors of gold.

The gold pieces stay in place while the top of the joint bends.

Now another subsection. More shiny gold parts.

This next step looked simple enough but proved a bit of a challenge. The bottom part snaps in like so.

And then is supposed to swing up and snap into place however, if the angle of the pivot shaft, for lack of a better word, isn’t correct it will snap into place but not be flush against the leg. There is more than one articulation point at work here so I had to get them lined up for it to snap perfectly into place.

Once it’s done, though, you can bend the joint to its fullest extent.

The next section has you put on your first armor piece. I admit I hesitated here. I originally planned to build the frame first and then apply the armor. If I don’t apply the armor here, will I be able to do so afterwards? I took the plunge and did not attach the armor. We’ll find out later if that was the right move.

Now comes the big parts! Well, this part here will go in the big part.

Then add a moving part at the bottom.

Now we’re back to here. This looks familiar, ね.

I built something almost exactly the same for the foot.

Now the lower part of your leg looks like this.

The watcher approves.

Up next is the work on the ankle joint. More shiny gold parts and the cylinder housing.

This is a really tight fit. You need to have everything lined up and in place for it to come together properly. There is really no room for error here.

Put it all together and what do you have? One monstrous leg. It’s enormous. So this is what a PG is…

Perfect Grade articulation.

The ankle joint pivots pretty well, but how much the armor will hinder it is yet to be determined.

The manual then has you put on the armor parts but I am not going to do that yet. I did, however, add a couple more gold pieces. Undergates are plentiful in this build, but not all gates are undergates. I wonder how Bandai decided which needed to be undergated and which could be left alone.


This weekend I am heading off to Osaka to hand out with ASM and Busterbeam from Plamo Addiction.  Buster is heading back to Canada soon and this just might be the last time we’ll see him.  Of course, Gunpla will be partaken of.

Have a great weekend everyone.

Categories: Builds, PG, Strike Freedom

17 Responses so far.

  1. Tom says:

    The legs are pretty much the only part of Gunpla that requires alot of pieces. And the cat is watching your Gunpla lol.

  2. Bob says:

    Does anyone build the way I do? First I cut all the pieces from all the runners, group the pieces by color, clean the nubs off of each part and lay them out neatly by color and with similar/same pieces and obvious partner pieces (leg parts with other leg parts,etc.) and then start building? The first couple of kits I did, I cut and cleaned pieces as they were called for in the construction guide, but it seemed to me like there was a lot of time wasted going back and forth.

    • syd says:

      I had thought of building in that way but fear I would lose a piece or mistake a piece for a similar one. If I cut all the parts off the sprue I lose the part number designation and only have the image in the manual to go by. Also, I frequently gave to stop in the middle of something to attend to GaiGun JR and if I built the way you mentioned I would probably lose mu place fairly easily. If it works for you then more power to you. One of the things I like about this hobby is the many diverse ways people approach it.

      • Joe says:

        Yes, the diversity is fun! I go through the manual and cut all the pieces off for each section: head, body, left/right arm/leg, weapons, hips, and backpack and place them in boxes designated for each part. When I go through the manual to assemble the kit I take the corresponding box, trim all the parts and then build the piece. Picked this technique up from Ngee Khiong.

    • Anton says:

      I remember I did that a long time ago and it worked out fine, although it was an HG 1/144 kit so I guess there are lesser risk of losing parts. For my recent MG build I didn’t want to risk it since there were probably 3 times more parts. But I think if you organize/ separate the parts well (like Joe elaborated) it should be fine and you will save a lot of time in terms of moving from one runner to the other because you can just cut and trim away.

  3. Dennis says:

    The MG of this Gunpla has a similar armor piece. From that experience I think it should not hinder the build. I built my leg frame and attached the armor bit after it was painted. It’s part of a gimmick that flips open to reveal the thruster. Funny your cat watching you build it. Are all the frame pieces plated?

    • syd says:

      Only the frame pieces that will be visible when the kit moves are plated. The rest are just molded in color. That said, the darker gold color for the E runner (am I remembering correctly?) is actually really nice.

  4. Evan August says:

    Building my PG 00 legs right now. Quite complex. I tend to leave all the parts on the runner until I need them, then cut and clean up what I will use in a session. Paint, future coat, then assemble. One step at a time. Though I tend to jump around in the instructions a bit. PG can be intimidating at first, you just got to jump in and then do it, things just start to flow.
    It’s looking good Syd. When does gunpla TV return? I need my weekly fix man.

  5. sonar says:

    Damn I couldn’t build a PG the way you guys are talking about above. I can see how some people do it that way. I normally cut out all parts for a section from the one runner, say Runner H for the legs, and then the next runner and so on, and the go about trimming and sanding. That minimizes picking up the same runner 15 times. After you put them down in the wrong order or do something to make your neat little array of parts scatter enough times you get pretty good at identifying a part from the picture alone. The bonus is that the kits are engineered so well that you know almost instantly if you have the part that goes on the other side of the piece or the other leg altogether.

    Have fun in Osaka guys! Best Okonomiyaki ever. If you like some heat, CoCo at Namba or Tennoji is killer. Ask for a 10. 😉

  6. Traviss says:

    In an unrelated post, GO SEAHAWKS!!!

  7. Ken says:

    Awsome gundam Syd, Go Eagles!!!!!!!!!

  8. DF says:

    This reminds me alot of PG Strike Gundam, I think it’s 90% the same parts

    • Joe says:

      Oh, no, my friend this is a 100% new beast!

      • DF says:

        If you see the review of PG strike gundam on or Z’s, you’ll know what I mean, I think Bandai just recycle some of strike gundam frame like they used on PG astray red frame

      • Joe says:

        That is disappointing… The initial statements were that this was all new mold… oh well, I guess

  9. danny says:

    just a thought… for the dragoon joints problem where it breaks, would it be possible to make a straight hole like around 1,5mm and insert a steel tube in it?

  10. syd says:

    Hi Danny,

    That’s an idea I hadn’t heard of yet and I will keep it in mind when I get to that part of the build. I haven’t really looked at that section yet as I am a ways from there. I had thought about using some epoxy putty to fill in the holes of that piece to make it sturdier, but I will have to see how that piece functions before making a final decision.

Leave a Reply