Gaijin Gunpla

So I’ve already stated I think the Nu Gundam compares to the Sinanju Ver Ka, so I thought I’d take a second to compare their boxes.

They appear to be similar in size, but the Sinanju box is actually slightly thicker.

Before starting the kit I took a minute to separate the stack of runners into the frame runner/larger runners, and the smaller runners which I might not need right away.

And then I took a minute to look at the manual particularly the pages showing the runners.

That’s a lot of stuff. I also prepared a certain something that I would need.


So I’m ready to start and because I mentioned I would be timing myself on this build I glance at my phone.

Yes, the wallpaper on my iPhone is my HG G Gundam.
7:30 in the evening seems like a good time to start.

So to start I grab my trusty sidecutters and the first runner.

Wow, so small a runner. Anticlimactic?

Add a small white part to a frame part…

The majority of the parts for the torso are all on one runner, like these two.

When Bandai exhibited the MG Nu Gundam Ver Ka at the 52nd All Japan Hobby Show they made a point of stating that there were ‘No ABS used in Body Parts’. At first I didn’t understand the significance of this decision by Bandai but once I got the runners in my hand, felt their lightweight and flexible parts, and started putting things together it was tough not to notice the difference. The pieces slide together without the usual clunking and clicking, can take a bit more force due to being a little more malleable, and best of all leave almost no gate marks like we’re used to from bulky MG armor and frame parts.

Adding more frame parts your Nu Gundam starts to take shape.

The next step includes parts that give a hint as to what you’re assembling.

There’s a ball joint looking like it belongs in a socket found on a skirt…

And a very familiar looking cockpit.

Here’s the pilot, sitting comfortably in his chair. Just slide the control panel into place.

Seen from the back you can see how the control panel slides in on grooves.

Now the manual states…

So I do.

Then insert the cockpit.

Now the craziness begins.

That’s a very small part. And what do you do with that part? You put tiny foil stickers on it, of course!

You are instructed to put the foil stickers on the underside of these green parts so don’t worry if you don’t get the alignment perfect. Once you put the part in place your precision isn’t really noticeable.

Now for some larger parts.

The parts for the side are quite interesting.

That’s not a shape I’ve encountered before in my Gunpla travels. It’s obvious there are part of the shoulder assembly but you don’t yet know how they perform. The fit is very easy and snug.

At the bottom you add some white parts.

One acts as a latch while another slides in from below.

Then the manual states.

However, when I pulled down on the bottom of the torso, the white armor part would come off so I removed it completely, pulled down the frame, then put the armor part back on. With that done I added side armor parts and then pushed the bottom of the torso back up.

From there you grab some more strange looking frame parts.

The two round pieces slide together like so:

And then you turn down one of the pieces.

This kind of locks the joint together.

Once you’ve got the joint together you insert it into the torso.

Looks kinda cool.

Now for more green parts!

Which means more foil stickers!

And then you can begin putting on the vents and blue armor pieces.

What’s this? Another green part with a tiny sticker?

A couple more armor parts are put into place.

And then you find yourself with a choice.

You can use the blue parts or the Dome-G version white parts. I went with the blue.

Looking at the optional parts you can see how they are designed to slide into place and be held in place by friction, which means you can replace them with the other optional parts at any time.

Cockpit hatch parts.

First the red part is put into place.

It can slide up opening the cockpit. This is somewhat similar to the cockpit hatch design found on the RX-78-2 ver 2.0 and its variations.

So let’s just put that in place.

Now to the poly-cap runner.

The first poly-cap you take from the runner is used to hold clear part into the neck armor.

Wait, a clear part? I thought I would be using this green part?

Put the clear part into the poly-cap then the poly-cap into the armor piece. Then a couple more pieces are added.

The rear frame part actually clicks into place in a ball/socket type of deal and can move. Now add the LED.

The LED assembly then slides into the cavity in the torso from behind.

Then an armor part is laid overtop.

And I’ve completed the torso.

Time: 8:29 PM

About an hour to build the torso. Not bad. I think I could bring that down to 50 minutes if I wasn’t taking pictures and making Gai-Gun Jr. get in the bath.

Hey, it’s only 8:30. I got time to build the head.

Start with two clear parts, one clear and one green.

The clear part actually slides into the green part from the back.

Now add the stickers.

Only one frame part is used for the head into which you insert a poly-cap.

Slap a sticker on the back.

The facemask part is actually quite big making you realize the size of this MG.

Add a part to the front and another clicks into place at the back.

The small part at the back swivels. I imagine it was designed this way to allow Nu’s head to tilt upwards more than that of your average MG.

Add the side armor parts.

Looking Version Kawesome!

Add the first V fin.

Then the second smaller V fin slides in from the top.

Then the blue part. How fun is it not to see red there.


So with the torso and head together I move onto the arms and everything is done x 2.

Here’s the shoulder joint.

The piece in the top of the picture is a poly-cap.

More uniquely shaped parts.

Like this one.

Slide that unique part over top of the circle, then click the piston part into place.

Then swing the pistons down.

Another piece and two poly-caps.

Taking two large frame parts you piece together the upper arm.

Two even larger frame parts hold the poly-cap and wrist part in place and complete the lower arm.

That poly-cap fits snugly into the its bed.

At this point you’ve got two pretty flexible arms.

More clear green parts…

Like before the foil stickers go on the underside which isn’t that simple given the size and shape of the part.

But once you’ve got them on you put the part onto the upper arm.

Slap a couple armor parts onto the back of the arm.

Then two blue armor parts at the bottom of the arm.

The gap between these parts opens and closes with a little effort.

More armor parts.

One piece slides down onto the back of the elbow.

The other two slap onto the front.

Two of the same parts then go on the sides of the upper arm while a single part completes the bottom.

Now for small yellow pieces.

These yellow parts are small but they go into place really easily thanks to tabs sticking out from one half of the bottom.

Now for those new to MG hands!

I’m familiar with these types of hands, of course, and I was really happy to see them included in an MG kit.

Start positioning the fingers.

Here’s something cool. A little tab extends from the side of the hand.

It swings into the center of the hand and it looks like it will be involved in the process of securing weapons into Nu Gundam’s hands.

Finally, add the lone armor part and you’ve got a completed hand.

Once you reach this point you have what looks to be a completed arm.

But it’s here that the manual differentiates right from left. First up, the right arm.

Just these two parts for the right arm.

The left on the other hand involves more parts.

Click a frame part into the large one.

And slides open and closed. Then a tiny part is laid on top.

it doesn’t fit into any groove or click into any position, but instead rests there until held in place by the armor part.

Now for stickers.

Um.. what? Stickers? Stickers to distinguish color? Is this an HG?

I was quite taken aback when I saw what these stickers were for. I’m not sure how I feel about it. Sure some of these stickers are put in areas that are too small to have a separate part.

But still.. stickers?

With those done I have two completed arms.

And what time was it?

9:51 PM. Two hours and 21 minutes after starting I am taking my first respite and putting the kit away until I can begin session number 2.

For anyone else out there building an MG Nu Gundam Ver Ka, check out and feel free to participate in the Group Build started by Lupes over at the Gundam Australia Forum.

Categories: Builds, MG, Nu Gundam Ver. Ka

23 Responses so far.

  1. ClayCannonII says:


  2. kikokix says:

    Whaaaat ugly nub marks on the elbow joint.

  3. Michael says:

    SO, LED is not included, right?

  4. MatX says:

    So, it does come with the new flexible PS frames that started with the Marasai…

  5. ErazEr says:

    interesting, the clear green parts used shiny foil stickers to enhance the clear green, similar to what they did to the AGE’s iconic A logo on the chest and on its eyes

  6. Yuri Barbosa Ordeste says:

    I ain’t gonna be using those stickers, they look bad and don’t add nothing. It was nice for them to include though if someone really wants it

  7. Asian1skill says:

    wowowowow its got a torso/back locking system dang glad they put it in compared to the old nu

  8. DemonDez says:

    interesting build.. and the inner frame look very good..

  9. Dave says:

    “…and best of all leave almost no gate marks like we’re used to from bulky MG armor and frame parts.”

    Oh Syd, you just gave me a boner. 🙂 I can’t wait for mine to arrive now. Thanks as always for the great info!

    • Tony says:

      ^Agreed… one question, how does it leave less/no gate marks? sounds too good to be true.

      • syd says:

        The ABS plastic is stronger, heavier and resists being cut much more than this plastic. The resistance against the blades causes the plastic to tear/warp which is what leaves gate marks.

  10. Huey says:

    Looking good! I hope I can build this. I have a grand total of one gunpla under my belt (NG 1/100 Red Frame, painted to give it the extra finish look on the red. Chipped paints on the joints and all).

    Looks like I’ll be painting some bits on this one as well… Would you recommend Chrome Silver on the clear green psycoframe parts?

  11. Dennis says:

    I wish FedEx would hurry up with mine.

  12. Sonar says:

    LOL @ “Version Kawesome”

  13. ClayCannonII says:

    Did you have any trouble keeping the neck on? Mine keeps falling off

  14. Teo says:

    The top of the foil stickers seems to shine better than the bottom adhesive side.
    Wonder would it be more worthwhile to flip the foil stickers and paste them on the corresponding gray parts instead of the underside of the clear green parts?

  15. Qualfalcon says:

    can you show the difference when you turn on the lamp?
    there is 2 different parts for the neck…
    clear white and clear green…
    when the lamp is turned on is there any difference in it?

    • syd says:

      My guess is that they originally molded the parts for the neck and a head part on in green but the light didn’t pass through it well enough so they then put those parts on the clear frame runner.

Leave a Reply