Gaijin Gunpla

The Geara Doga is big. After working with MG Crossbones and Backpacks for the Aile Strike I’m struck by just how big these pieces seem in comparison. I mean, look at this thing!

Every part in this kit just seems bigger than what I’ve been used to with MGs lately. I wasn’t sure how much time I would be able to devote to the kit during my first weekend with it but I was fortunate and was able to do a good amount of building thanks to Gai-Gun Jr. and mother heading off to an Onsen.

I expected this kit to be much like the Marasai and the torso frame definitely is. It shares a lot of the same design (and parts) in the shoulder areas among others.

Actually all the parts in this shot are the same as the Marasai, if my memory serves me correctly. Once you get the cockpit seat and lower torso frame put together you snap them onto the large front frame part.

You can see it can tilt forward much like the frame of the Zaku II 2.0.

Onto the pegs on each side of the frame you attach the shoulder assembly.

(It just occurred to me that I didn’t need to take so many pictures of the shoulder because it’s just the same. Oh well, here’s one more.)

Now add that huge rear frame part.

He’s fat.

Add the first of the armor parts.

The front armor part needs to have a couple of small frame parts tucked into it from underneath.

These are meant to show through the tiny openings on the front of the torso.

But they are hard to see from certain angles.

Can’t really make it out there. How’s this?

Hmm, not really. Trust me, they are in there.

Loving the panel lines visible in this shot.

Now for the darker green.

First assemble the top hatch assembly and slide it into the torso frame and then place the chest armor part on.

Leave the hatch open.

The bottom hatch is only two parts.

So snap those on and close it up then bring the top hatch in and close it.

Next up are the clear parts that are there to make the LED (not included) work.

Add the pink mono-eye sticker.

A clear part for the visor is then attached to the main head frame part and the mono-eye assembly put in place.

And now for some bendy fun.

I’ve already talked about the bendy yellow tubing which is quite a change from the normal plastic individual collars found on every Zaku II and Gouf 2.0 kits as well as the Marasai. Here’s how bandai has designed these to work.

You can see these openings on the underside of the bendy tube. This isn’t just a by-product of the injection process but is actually part of the application for the piece meaning these little grooves are placed their purposefully. They are meant to go over top of the little tabs sticking out of the Geara Doga frame.

Being bendy it goes around the curved part quite well but does tend to want to go back to its original shape. Add back part that you’ll never see when the head is on the body.

The armor part is then placed on and secures the tubing in position.

Then add the nose and the mono-eye assembly.

Everything fits together very well.

Here’s a shot showing the underside of the tubing and the manual.

Because of the tubing’s tendency to retain a straight shape the manual indicates a specific order to follow to get the tubing to go on.
Step 1)

Step 2)

Step 3) (profit)

With the tubing on the frame part you then add an armor part.

Then assemble the section that will house the LED unit.

Before attaching the head to the collar section you must first choose which head you’ll use. Spke or no spike?

I love my spikes but I’m gonna go without this time.

It looks like something.

With the collar/head assembly on the torso.

Oh, but I was still going. I got the arms built, too!

The shoulders.

Upper arm frame.

And more tubing, this time it’s quite small.

A tiny tab on the back of one end of the tubing fits into the opening on the frame part.

You’re probably gonna need to push it in with tweezers or something narrow.

Lower arm frame built onto the upper arm frame.

The upper arm armor is then applied but there’s another frame part to go on the bottom before you can start on the armor there.

The lower arm armor and the poly-cap to connect the hand.

Add the shoulder and the cuff and you’re done the arm assembly for both arms.

Tough to get these guys to stay put for photos. They’re so rounded.

Now for the right arm.

These small parts click into place in the opening in the shoulder. The frame part is then dropped onto the poly-cap.

Yup, that’s right. Usually you’ll have two parts sandwiching the poly-cap but this just drops on.

Now for a thruster.

Actually this also clips onto that poly-cap.

The second thruster is slightly larger.

The connection is also different.

It clips into an opening on the underside of the big shoulder frame piece.

Now for the big armor piece (along with a small, circular piece).

First put the small part on and then drop the larger one on from above.

You can see there’s a tiny gap left for a tab on the underside of the armor part. This helps in lining it up properly.

And now for this big thing!

The spikes actually come in two sets of two and slide in from behind.

With the spikes in their proper place you can put the frame part on from the back. Don’t forget the poly-cap.

Clip the poly-cap onto the ball joint.


Marasai-like hands.

And that’s just one arm! Start the process again for arm #2. On the left arm the peg used is longer.

Again with the thrusters but the larger thruster uses a different part for the connection to the underside of the frame.

Add the armor.

Check this out.

An undergate. Probably the only one on the kit but when you think about the gate’s placement it makes sense. The curvature is quite pronounced and any normal gate would have been difficult to cut flush.

Needs spikes.

Longer on the top, shorter on the bottom.

Alright then.

We’re almost half way to fully awesome.

Categories: Builds, Geara Doga, MG

11 Responses so far.

  1. Yuri Barbosa Ordeste says:

    Never noticed how menacing he looks.

    It looks like he is going to beat some MS down, and painfully

  2. Josh says:

    No 2.0 hands? 🙁
    That’s a bummer. But loving the look.

    • shiro11 says:

      Just saw the dalong scans of the manual and it comes with a extra pair of poseable 2.0 hands, but they don’t seem to have slots to help hold the weapons.

  3. Frank says:

    Hey Syd,

    Based on your experience with the Marasai, how we’ll does the flexible parts hold paint?

    • syd says:

      The marasai didn’t use the same type of bendy tubing parts but I’m tempted to spray the runner of the parts I’ve used to see how they hold paint. I have my reservations.

  4. Woodfish says:

    How do you like it so far? Would you recommend this guy?

    • syd says:

      I can’t tip my hand yet. That’s what the review is for. Let’s just say, nothing I’ve encountered so far has caused me to regret picking this kit up.

  5. Karu says:

    You know, this isn’t the first time Bandai used softer rubber-like parts for a kit. I recently built the MG Z’Gok, and it uses bendable rubber parts as well. Glad to see they’re making a comeback on the MG Geara Doga. 🙂

  6. Victor says:

    Just wondering, what side cutter are you using? (the one shown in the pictures)

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