Gaijin Gunpla

I’ve got the lower half of both kits done so know let’s build the top halves and make two wholes in the process.

As in the first session, Zephyranthes is first and we’re building the ‘body unit’.

The first step is to put together the upper torso frame by attaching some small parts onto a main piece. These small parts are the neck joint and what looks to be the shoulder pegs.

Follow that up by building the cockpit hatch.

This is actually pretty tough. You have to get the white part to lay on the frame part while you slide them into the blue armor part. As there is nothing securing the white armor in place until it’s in position in the blue part, and because you’re working with such small parts in a small space, it’s tough to get everything lined up.

After much fiddling…

I’m going to have to go through this again with the Fb, right? ugh.

Add the top and bottom hatches.



Now clip the hatch assembly onto the frame and then cover it with the large armor part.

The view of the connection from below. You can see the pegs that are likely used to connect the arms but those remain in this position for now.

I’m already loving the look of this.

And next, build the backpack which is actually just a couple armor parts and a frame piece.

A little clear part goes in the back.

And we’re done.

Wait, that’s it for the body unit?

Repeat for Full Burnern.

Start is exactly the same.

And the method of assembly is also the same but the armor parts are different.

You also have these little pieces to deal with. These cover the chest vents.

They have to go on a certain way and Bandai indicates in the manual what to look for on the back of the piece.

And Fb’s body unit is finished so let’s go back to Zephyranthes. We seem to be switching back and forth fairly quickly now.

Next up, the arms.

Take your frame.

Add the shoulder armor and the elbow rings.

For frame parts you only need this little piece for the back of the elbow joint.

You need to bend the arm to move the frame out of the way in order to get the proper angle to plug the frame part on. It’s small and fragile so if you get the wrong angle it could break. Don’t ask me how I know.

Add armor for the upper arm as well as the wrist and back of the elbow.

Next is the front of the lower arm and a little piece for the side of the shoulder.

The part for the lower arm needs an extra frame part inserted before it goes on.

Bend the arm forward and put on the last armor part.

Add the hand and you’re done.

Repeat for the other arm.

And then, the shoulders.

Plug the frame parts into one side then add the opposite side and top armor parts.

These go on the body unit the same as other RG kits. You move the connector peg out and slide the loop of the arm frame on and then return the peg to its original position.

Be sure to leave the slight gap.

Bandai addresses that using these.

Drop it onto the peg from above.

Z is done so let’s build the Full Burnern‘s arms.

The arms are assembled exactly the same way.

But the shoulders? Oh my.

No resemblance at all to what we built only ten minutes ago.

Start with these three parts.

Attach the white armor part to the thruster and push it up through the opening in the blue armor part.

Now for these.

I guess it doesn’t need to be explained, but these two side parts are ridiculously small.

But they move!

Attach this to the frame part that is in the blue armor piece and push it down into place.

Cover it up with the top armor.

Check this out!

Finish the shoulder by laying the frame part on and then putting the side parts on.

Notice how they fit around the plastic of the larger part of the shoulder.

Fit is very tight and secure.

These go on the same way as the other kit’s.

So let’s build the head unit. First up.. Well, both of them.

They have the same head. This should be fast.

Choose your sticker.

I always go with the one sticker way as it’s much faster and I don’t feel the three sticker design actually makes enough of a difference in the look of the kit to warrant spending the time to get it right.

Plug the facemask and eye part into the head frame.

Add the armor for the top and then the sides.

The antennae can move. Nice touch.

Add a part to the top as well as the vulcans. The design here is really well done.

Slide the yellow part on from behind and then cover it with the gray part.

And finally, the V-fin but this can be tricky. You’re meant to put it on sliding the top half of it in first.

But it’s not too easy. The extended area of the red part is exactly the size of the opening so if your alignment is off even slightly it becomes next to impossible to get it sliding into its place. I advise trimming the sides of the red a tiny bit at an angle that will allow you to get the ball rolling.

Much easier.

I think this is one of the best looking Gundam heads around.

Correction, I think these are two of the best looking Gundam heads around.

Place them on your Body Units.

How do we get these onto the lower half of the kit which we built in the previous post? That’s where the Core Fighter IIs come in. Let’s do Zephyranthes first.

Bring up the weapons which I think are actually beam saber handles and push the fins down.

Open the armor part on the bottom while folding the wings underneath.

Be sure to follow the manual and fold the wings in the correct order.

Now you are meant to pull of the white armor around the yellow vents, pull the vents out and spin them around and put them back in.

I’m going to skip that. During this process fold the nose of the cockpit underneath and flip open the smaller blue armor part. Your Core Fighter II should look like this.

Now you drop the Body Unit on from above so open up the front and back to create room to work.

Little tabs in the bottom of Body Unit drop into the openings of the Core Fighter which were exposed when you flipped the small blue armor part up.


I had a little yellow part pop out of my Core Fighter when I did this. Will fix later.

The body unit is then dropped onto the lower half of the kit. Tabs sticking up from the lower torso slide into openings on the underside of the Core Fighter. This Core Fighter is pretty important.

Cool, so the transformation of the Full Burnern‘s Core Fighter II is the same, ya?


Bring the beam sabers from the bottom to the top and point them up.

Fold up the cockpit and open up the small blue armor part.

It looks ready to go on but if you tried now those huge things on the back would be in the way of everything. Those have to move.

Grasp each side and pull slowly and firmly.

This exposes the little joint. Rotate it backwards slightly so the bend faces towards the back.

Move those huge things backwards. (I want to call them bell-ends, but I won’t).

Now you can easily drop the Body Unit on.

That is sexy.


Not sure if these are the same or not so I’m going to jump in and find out later. Here’s the rifle and shield for the Zephyranthes. The rifle isn’t too complicated though the barrel has more parts than I’m used to seeing.

As for the Full Burnern

Well, they look the same but something’s different.

It’s the manual. The steps in the manual for the Full Burnern aren’t the same as those in the manual for the Zephyranthes.

The shields are the same, so construct the top half first.

Then attach the larger bottom half onto the frame and then seal it up with some blue.

It contracts slightly.

Add some of the rifle ammo and a couple of parts for attachments to the back of the shield and you’re done.

The handle can go on two different ways.

There are Beam Sabers but I’m not going to worry about those right now. This session has been quite long.

You can make Beam Saber handles that have a tab that fits into the palm of the gundam hand.

Or you can pull a handle off the Core Fighter.

Check out this cool little extra. A shield handle that has a grasped hand as part of the molding.

This is a great idea however, it seems the hand is molded facing the wrong way.

Will need to evaluate this more closely.

The back of the manual explains some of the Full Burnern’s gimmicks.

And there you go. Two new RG kits in one post. So after building both, which do I think is better.

I guess you’ll just have to wait for the reviews.

13 Responses so far.

  1. Mike says:

    They both look awesome IMO.

  2. Pshyga says:

    Several fragile parts, totally different shoulder, moving antennae. WOW I love these RG, maybe I’ll be very excited when I build these kit.

  3. Spardin says:

    They could scale the rg up to 1/100 to use as MG for some of he older kits.
    is there a master grade for these 2 at all?

  4. Michael says:

    YOu might want to fix this typo “Fold up the cockpick”. As for the hand, I’m thinking this is to allow the action pose where MS holds the shield in the stretched arm. E.g. the pose of the RG RX-78-2 ver.GFT on a stands suggests that, but it’s pretty much impossible to make articulate RG hand to fold the weight of the shield that way – it keeps sliding out and tilting to the side. Considering that RX-78-2 has only articulate hands and fists, you have no other options as to try and make it hold the shield tight with an articulate hand.

  5. YongKang says:

    Hey Syd, I got a problem with the cockpit hatch on my RG GP01 fb. It doesn’t close perfectly. I don’t know it’s a design problem or what. The upper top of it leaves me a little gap.

    • Tony says:

      Just finished mine, and have the same issue, so you’re not alone there. I wasn’t going to bother asking about it lol.

  6. koji says:

    Hi Syd, I got a Full Burnern one, I found that my body unit doesnt fit the top of core fighter perfectly. the body unit easily popped out from the core fighter when I try to move or pose the arms. or did I miss something ? Thanks in advance

    • YongKang says:

      Hey Koji, check the pegs at the bottom of your top-half that they are fit tightly. Give the assembly a good squeez before posing. Helps a lot.

  7. Koji says:

    Hi yongkang thanks for the suggestion, Im gonna check and recheck on the pegs after office. I’ll make sure those pegs are connected

  8. Kuroneko says:

    Hello! I;;m confused as to what should I do with the extra B6 (frame) of the Full Burnern not to mention the removed heel part. What’s up with those ‘unused’ parts?

    • syd says:

      The frame for the GP01 kits is the same frame designed for the Mk-II kits. Because of this there are parts that aren’t used. If you look at the runner list in the manual for the GP01 you can see that the B6 part is crossed out.

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