Gaijin Gunpla

Though there is a bit of a gap (9 days!?) between my previous PG-Unicorn-LED post let me assure you that I didn’t just leave Bandai’s newest technological marvel sitting in its box for a week (or 9 days). I actually went back and wired him up completely a couple of nights later and am just now getting a chance to write about it. I’m a busy guy.

To wire up the arms I have to take them almost completely apart again though don’t have to do anything to the shoulder.

For the elbows, like the knees, I’ll also be needing a frame part to secure things in place.

The LED fits into a psycho-frame part.

You secure it in place by hooking the wires behind/between little tiny tabs.

You want to get those wires in there properly so that you can assemble the arm afterwards but I found myself taking a few attempts at it because I didn’t want to be too rough with the wires and potentially wreck the LED.

Slide the psycho-frame part from the outside into the frame assembly for the arm.

Now, just like the knee, run the wire up from the lower arm towards the upper arm securing the wires in place in the slots provided.

That last frame part goes on securing the wires in their proper place (provided you got them in the proper place…)

It’s here that I put on the psycho-frame part for the upper arm that I left out when I did the frame assembly while also spreading the wires to go around the shoulder joint.

It holds the wiring in place but slides around easily. When the armour goes on things will be locked down in there. The manual then has you put on the red foil stickers. They go on both sides of the LED.

Now things get kind of tricky. (That is a recurring theme with this kit and the LED.) You have to loop the LED around and run it between the wires that you had spread apart.

The LED then snaps into place in the underside of the shoulder frame.

It takes some effort and you’ll know you’ve got it right when you hear a loud pop, but you may dirty your pants because you think you broke the LED when it happens. I’m telling you this as a warning. Have extra pants nearby.

Now put the shoulder onto the upper arm/shoulder joint.

Next you bring the arm out like this.

The wires on each side of the shoulder connector clip into place leaving one large length protruding out.

Just assemble the lower arm again and your done.

You can see the little gaps bandai designed into the frame to allow the wires to fit in there.

Assemble the second arm the same way…

…then get really impatient and attach them to the body as soon as you can. That’s what I did anyway.

With no armour on the torso the wires are just looping around in whatever way they want. Enjoy your freedom for now, wires.

You are meant to loop it in a specific way and then put the connection in a little hollow in the lower torso.

I resisted the urge to test it out (or maybe I didn’t…) and went right to the head. That meant disassembling most of it.

Here’s the LED for that.

It snaps into place behind the faceplate.

From there I reassembled the head.

Without any armour it’s cool to see how Bandai designed it to incorporate the LED and still transform. The wire actually floats freely and the top assembly, which houses the horn, slides forward and back not getting stuck on the wiring that runs through the head.

Snap the faceplate onto that top assembly.

Add the face mask and I think we are good.

The connection for the head is at the back and is covered by the larger armour piece on the back of the head so it’s not visible. But I wanted things visible which is why I kept armour off this big guy.

Only the backpack left and that is so easy I almost feel writing about it is a waste of time. Let me show you what I mean. Here is the LED unit for the backpack.

That’s it. Connect it to the wire sticking out of the back of the Unicorn.

Then just place it in the hollow found in the underside of the backpack as you clip the backpack into place.

Power, on!

Oh yea!

With that all done I will start on the armour, but first an adjustment on a couple of pieces.

Categories: Builds, PG, Unicorn Gundam

10 Responses so far.

  1. Michael says:

    Looks like you’ve avoided some of the issues I had.

    The stickers on the sides of the LED? These were torn off as soon as I tried attaching the hand back on the LED. As a result I found it easier to disassemble the lower arm completely and rebuild it around the LED. I also checked how all the things moved and cut a bit of plastic so it doesn’t tear the stickers off during the tranformation.

    The head LED – mine didn’t have all three wires bunched up together. I ended up cutting off the bits of the facemask to make room for wires.

  2. Belades says:

    I can’t help but think this would look AMAZING if the LED bulbs were replaced with Black Lights, as it makes the transparent plastic (at least on the mg) flouresce MUCH MUCH more and it’s distributed much more evenly than this looks.

    As of such, I’m dying to know what it would look like with internal blacklights as opposed to the external ones I’ve seen before.

  3. BlackAce says:

    Hey syd been reading your blog for a while now and I’d like to say good work om the reviews.

    Just wanna ask what Tamiya Side Cutter are using? Is it the Tamiya Side Cutter for Plastic(74001) or the Tamiya Side Cutter for Plastic Sharp Pointed(74035)

    Are they both good? Or does the sharp pointed one better? Thanks!!!

    • syd says:

      The Sharp Pointed one is probably better in terms of quality but I do like the curved edge the 74001 has.

      • BlackAce says:

        Does the 74001 produce good cuts? I see you using them on the HLJ youtube channel during your on-screen builds.

        Just want your opinion on its performance since the 74001 is the only tamiya side cutter that is easy to find in our country, the sharp pointed is so rare to find even at our local hobby store which is a tamiya product official distributor.

        Thanks a bunch!

  4. carl says:

    would you actually recommend buying the LED unit first before assembling the kit?

  5. Leo says:

    Hi Syd! Just wondering do you have a problem with PG unicorn left arm? for some reason whenever I try to do the last part to install the LED where you have to bring out the arm out to tug in the cables to the shoulder attachment the part of the arm that connect to the shoulder joint always popping off. I try to look it up online but I was not able to find anything.

    • S2 says:

      It could be you’ve got a wire slightly in the wrong place inside there and that’s preventing the connection from being solid. That connection is quite simple and I found that it can start to come apart if something isn’t lined up or you pull too strongly on the arm.

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