Gaijin Gunpla

I showed the box and contents for the 1/100 High-Resolution Model Gundam Barbatos in the First Look post but refrained from getting a close look at that new magical frame because that kit was scheduled to be shown in its entirety in HobbyLink.TV’s Live Event. That event is finished and so I now have free reign to do what I wish with this kit. The frame is the big draw here and so I want to show lots of those details to you readers. This means I have to take off all that armour I spent two hours putting on.

It took five minutes to strip it down to its frame. I did keep some face parts and arm armour parts in place because I didn’t feel it was worth it to remove them.

Behold the Hi-Resolution Frame from the future!

You can see hydraulics all over this guy. As well, I should point out that there are a few metal parts in this kit and it’s completely plastic.

The knee is metal.

This does however add to the weight of the frame.

The bottom of the feet are metal as well and really help to hold this kit stably on the ground when it is standing.

Where you would use stickers on the 1/100 Barbatos to designate metal, on the HiRM you get metal!

There is even some in the rear skirt which seems more for visual effect.

I’ll now try to show the areas with the hydraulics.

Looks like a spine. Nice effect.

It can lean forward and backward pretty well at the waist.

And the head can tilt on its own as well but this isn’t a poly-cap/ball joint connection. There is a metal rod holding things in place in there.

The pistons at the waist don’t seem to move too much but I think that’s more a result of the rigidity they wanted to give this frame in that area.

The chest assembly is linked with the arm/shoulder assembly. With the armour off you can see several areas move together.

I will now show how the shoulder articulation moves the hydraulics found on the top and back of the torso.

The top hydraulic is connected to the shoulder by a ball joint. If you move the arm too far it can pop out.

It’s surprising when it happens but it can be reattached easily.

This can also happen with the tiny link that connects a chest frame piece with the shoulder assembly.

Be careful here. You can get it back on using tweezers. To make it easier you can pull the shoulder off to give you more room to work and a better angle.

When looking at the feet you’ll notice the two small pistons here don’t move.

This area isn’t noticeable with the armour on so I’m not disappointed and it’s likely a matter of Bandai not wanting a gimmick in the foot to hinder articulation of which there is quite a bit in the ankles.

It’s not only the piston that extends to give that movement but the place where it is attached on the back of the leg also moves.

The hydraulic here can extend quite a bit.

It actually moved beyond its balance so I have to hold it up while I document the extent of its movement.

Hydraulic in the back of the knee functions and is nicely visible with the armour on the kit.

The foot does bend slightly.

You can raise the arms up to this point.

It does look like the shoulder assembly can move further but it was so stiff I didn’t want to try.

It is worth noting that the shoulder joints ratchet, meaning they click as they move and can stick in a position quite well. I imagine this is necessary in order to support that large rifle. However, the knee joint with the heavy die-cast part is not ratchet and actually feels quite loose in comparison.

With the armour off I can place this expensive frame in its protective casing while I move to the weapons and extra hands.

You actually get quite a few extra hands.

Rather than swapping finger sections you build them in their entirety including wrist connector. Those parts are found on this runner

Note the asymmetrical shape of the wrist connector.

This is designed so that the wrist bends in one direction only.

You have to pull off the current hand before you can use any of the others.


First up is the sword and it’s really quite simple.

You just sandwich a couple of grey parts around the handle of the sword.

The sword is meant to mount on its back when its not being used and Bandai has designed a cool gimmick for that in the backpack.

First extend half of the side away from the base of the backpack.

You then slide two small sides out and then close it up.

Onto that you place a little adaptor.

Then the sword will just drop into place.

Now to assembly that monster rifle.

Insert a small piece into the very large brown rifle side.

Around that small piece slide some more of the black parts.

Make the scope.

Here you place the sticker but I am going to hold off on that because I am still considering adding paint to the rifle. It is the only part of the kit that doesn’t come in an extra finish.

Add another small black piece and close up the body of the rifle.

Assembly this thing.

It actually becomes part of a smaller assembly that will fit under the barrel of the rifle.

It can slide back and forth.

Add one small part to the rear of the rifle (this is so seemingly insignificant I debated even taking this picture).

Now for the barrel.

Before putting the barrel on you have a small piece to add to the end of the smaller assembly you have already put into place.

Now secure the barrel in place by first adding a small white cylinder.

This was done with stickers in the previous versions of the Barbatos.

That is one long weapon.

Barrel extends.

Flip it over.

Push it in again.

And mount it on the backpack the same way you did the sword.

I found it easier to work with that backpack gimmick by taking the entire backpack off.

Even with that added weight to the back he stands quite straight and solid.

The backpack gimmick can also be used to help hold the weapon when it is in use.

But I’ll play around more with this guy later.

For now, how about some Hi-quality images of the Hi-Resolution Barbatos.

Categories: Builds, Gundam Barbatos, HiRM

16 Responses so far.

  1. Izanagi Rising says:

    Out of curiosity, what would be your stance on panel-lining this? Would the finish make it harder for you to line it with the standard Gundam lining markers?

    • S2 says:

      I think it deserves a panel line but I would consider top-coating it before hand to protect the special finish pieces.

      • slatewarrior89 says:

        I have done panel line whith regular gundam marker on my own Barbatos HRM and all works perfectly as always (on white and grey plastic). I haven’t try on the red/blye/yellow plastic because I think it is ok without panel line

  2. Ctuia says:

    Definitely a cool looking piece. Lucky lucky..

    On that note, are there any others? Or is this the very first of these “Hi-Res” designs?

    As always, nice overview Syd.

  3. Frederik says:

    So far many reviews of the HIRM Barbatos are relatively negative. Obviously the kit is a bit overenigineered.

    Apart from that I really appreciate this next step in figurine science.

    • Bryanmerel says:

      It seems that it was produced to be beautiful and detailed first before making it playable. This thing is no plamo, this thing is 100% to its purpose a “Scale Model”.

  4. Charlo says:

    Damn!!!! This Hi Res Model Barbatos is amazing. I painted my 1/100 Barbatos but it’s nowhere near as cool as this one.

  5. Bryanmerel says:

    I still do hope for a master grade. This kit is too fragile and too expensive for me. {:(

  6. Frederik says:

    A lot of the overengineered joint issues can be solved. I just improved my HIRM Barbatos to a more playable figure 🙂

    The stiff joints (like on the waist and on the shoulders) can be loosened just by moving it for two or three minutes.

    The loose ball joint connections of the hydraulics on the upper shoulders can easily be glued with super glue and the mechanics still work perfectly.

    The knee joints of my figure were very loose so that the figure was not able to hold a pose properly. It is possible to detach the lower legs from the thighs just by pushing the metal stick out of the upper knee joint with a small screwdriver (a little bit of force is necessary). Then the screw of the lower knee joint is visible and can easily be tightened with a srewdriver…

  7. Isaac says:

    Does the cockpit hatch open?

  8. Scott Tucker says:

    I think it’s a good first step but when you pay that much money the joints shouldn’t fall out like that. Posing your gunpla is the whole point and this one falls apart every time.

    They should revisit the inner frame so people don’t have to repair it for posing, since it really is in the PG price range – PG are still the better model IMO.

  9. Bocalt says:

    Hi there, well most reviewers were quite negative about this. What’s your position considering there’s no proper review and score.

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