Gaijin Gunpla

During the first build session of the Freedom 2.0 I had only enough time to assemble the chest but what was there was quite exciting. I had a bit more time for the second session so I’ll show you how far I have progressed.

Session number two starts with these three parts.

Yup, I’m building the head.

The grey part fits into the back of the red piece and then the white facemask goes.

You’ll put the eye sticker on the clear part next and then connect that assembly to the frame piece.

You’re got another clear part to put into place, this one between the two side armour parts.

Stickers go on each end.

Then lay it inside one of the sides.

Close that up and you’ll have this.

Now for a very small piece on each cheek. No, not a pinch on the cheek, a piece on the cheek.

These are quite small but fit so precisely you shouldn’t have a problem getting them on.

Follow that up with the armour for the back of the head and the parts to get the V fins on.

On older kits V-fins often have a tendency to fall off but the design for this kit is excellent here. The fit is precise and deep so it’s not loose in any way.


Loving the look so far.

Looking over the instructions for the arm I was kind of thrown off. I usually expect to assemble a right arm and then a left arm, one after the other, or I find I am assembling two sets of parts so that I’m working on both arms at the same time until the very last steps.

On the Freedom 2.0 it starts out as if I am going to build the arms separately. There is no ‘x 2’ in the first box but it also isn’t stating it’s the right or left arm.

Actually you assembly both elbow frame assemblies the exact same way using the exact same parts however the manual doesn’t indicate there is a left or right.

Then it goes to the x 2.

And finally it goes right, left.

This didn’t make sense to me at the time of my first glance at the manual, however I figured out the why of this shortly after I started assembly.

Here are the frame parts that you’ll use for both elbows.

Look up at the first manual shot and look at piece I-32. There is a little groove that needs to face one way. The piece for the opposite arm is I-31 and has the groove on the opposite side. This will allow you to put piece I-37 in place in that groove.

Being in a groove means Mr. I-37 can slide.

Now I can attach the armour part for the back of the upper arm onto I-37 while inserting a piece into the front armour.

I then put the front armour part in place.

The little spec of grey on the front armour piece is actually a hollow in the mould of the white armour part that allows you to see the frame behind it.

Sliding action.

Now I assemble the other arm the same way.


So now it is the portion of the arm assembly where you are building both arms at the same time. Here are the shoulder joints.

You need two of these.

Looking at it from the other side reveals a ball joint.

And looking at it from the side you can see that the piece of grey frame that extends outwards will be placed in the hollow in the white armour piece.

But first you have to place that ball-jointed section onto the little hook on the end of the elbow frame you assembled at the start.

With that hooked in place you then add the sides.

Now check out this thing.

These are the wrists or cuffs at the end of the arms.

So you have to add a frame piece to the back of the arm as you place the shoulder joints and wrists on a well as assembling the hand.

That is a sexy looking arm.

Be sure to stretch before any strenuous exercise.

I can report that the shoulders are assembled both at the same time starting with these parts.

You are instructed to place the two grey parts in so that they line up.

The large white piece has a red piece it needs to pair with while the smaller one takes a blue part.

Notice how that blue part fits onto the runner.

It’s almost as if the piece is part of the runner.

So let’s get everything together here.

You have one final piece to add to the underside.

Shoulders are done.

These connect to the arm before fitting both onto the shoulder peg.

Quite often this means that the shoulder pops of and kind of flops around loosely on the peg however the design and fit here is very well done and it never popped off even though I was expecting it to. Maybe that comes later.

Upper body is a go.

But I’m not stopping here. I’m on a roll.

Next up is the skirt and it starts with these.

With those four parts you are making one hip peg.

Repeat the process for the opposite side.

Now place these in the large skirt frame part which has grooves in it.

Those pegs you assembled move!

That’s awesome.

Now add two frame parts that look just like poly-caps and close the skirt frame up.

Into this frame you place, from above, the part that will be used to connect to the torso and on top of that you place a piece to secure it in place.

Into the poly-cap-resembling side parts you’ll plug in little clamps and at this step you also add the center armour parts.

Front skirts assemble much the same way as those on the RX-78-2 2.0 and Wing EW Master Grade kits.

Check out the precision moulding here.

Rear skirt is one large section made up of a frame part, a larger armour part, and a small piece to connect those to the frame.

Plug it in and swing it up.

Here’s my Freedom 2.0 tadpole.

Legs are next. Yeehaw!

Categories: Builds, Freedom 2.0, MG

7 Responses so far.

  1. Cakra Parindra says:

    *kept looking at your homepage, over and over, waiting for the next WIP post*

  2. David Lynch says:

    Bandai really do have the best molds and that is one sexy looking tadpole Syd.

  3. Sablenk87 says:

    I might be wrong, but according to your wip, i didn’t see any inner frame in the arm, it builds like RE/100, and that is sad. CMIIW

    • Michael says:

      It is there, but it’s not connected to the torso, as the shoulder is very HG – a plastic polycap replacement sandwiched between two armor parts that also have a shaft to connect the rest of the arm.

      • Sablenk87 says:

        Exactly, it isn’t connected, the shoulder joint is ok, typical shoulder joint just with with colour not grey/frame colour. But the rest is so NG/RE build, you can’t have full arm frame if you took off armor parts. The MG that doesn’t have a full inner frame, what year it is?

  4. Dingo says:

    It looks like the new trend for MG is complex outer armor, simplified detail frames (opposite of Seeds MG 1.0, which is simplified armor, highly detailed frames). I do not know which I would prefer more.

    • Trent says:

      The more complex armor gives it a more machine look to me. But I guess it comes down to how you like to display your kits.

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