Gaijin Gunpla

Last episode ended on a cliff-hanger and everyone was eager to find out how the story goes. Well, the end is still a long ways off and we are picking up where we left off. The top half of the naked MS is done and now we are working on the skirt.

Slap a poly-cap into this odd looking frame part that looks like it belongs to a car model.

Then encase that in two frame parts with a poly-cap wedged in there for good measure.

Note how this piece pivots.

Now to plug in another frame part on each side.

You add the centre block here complete with small yellow V.

Next, add the rear centre piece and then you will drop in this large frame part 90 degrees to where it needs to be facing.

Then you can turn it into the correct position.

Here are all the skirts, both front and back. There is no difference in the size and shape between the front and rear skirts.

Okay, remember what we did with the Frame Cover (thin)? Do that again for the Frame Cover (fat).

All six of them!

Once done those assemble the feet. They are the same so you are doing both at the same time.

Put the blue and white front armour pieces together.

Then attach them, the back armour part, and a bottom frame part to your main foot frame assembly.

Add the heel.

Now for the ankle armour.

With the feet done you assemble the hip joints.

And then you start on the main frames for both legs.

There’s the thigh frame.

Here’s the lower leg frame.

Put them together making the knee.

Knee innards.

Now you start on the right leg only. Attach the hip socket and point it upwards so you can slide the Frame Cover on.

Slide it up to this point.

Notice how you have to set it underneath some frame edges.

I’m reminded of the LED wiring for the PG Unicorn.

Add two more armour parts to secure the Frame Cover in place.

Now bend the joint.

Allow me, once again, to give you builders out there who may be tackling this kit some advice.

When bending the joints on the legs where Frame Covers are involved don’t grip the frame cover when holding the leg/hip/ankle to bend it. You have to bend the joint without pulling on the frame cover otherwise it will stretch. You may need to hold the knee joint with one hand and have your tweezers or pliers reaching inside the Frame Cover and gripping the frame in there.

After bending the knee you have to cut off the excess Frame Cover. The photo shows you how.

That is a lot of Frame Cover to cut away. I was reluctant to cut that much at the start in case I had done something wrong in lining it up. If you cut off too much you can’t get it back.

Next you have to put on the round armour parts on each side of the knee. Like the elbows you need to find the holes. I had my left leg frame there for reference.

At this step you also slide another Frame Cover onto the leg frame from the top.

Here it gets a little tricky. Or, I just made it tricky for myself.

Remember you were supposed to cut off a lot of extra Frame Cover. You are meant to have the knee Frame Cover fit underneath edge on the top of the upper leg frame.

You can see I had to take off the second Frame Cover while I got this taken care of.

The second frame cover is also supposed to line up underneath edges.

Then you can add a frame part to both sides of the upper knee which will secure both Frame Covers into place.

If you haven’t got your Frame Cover in the right place, or have too much of it, it likely will prevent those frame pieces from closing completely. You’ll need to take care of that. Once you are satisfied that the Frame Covers are out of the way you then pop the front and rear upper armour parts on. They will push the frame parts into place and you’ll hear a loud snap when they go on all the way.

Now nothing (by nothing I mean Frame Cover) is moving around in there.

Now bend the hip joint and twist up the end of the Frame Cover.

My advice about not gripping the Frame Cover when bending the joint is especially pertinent here. The hip sockets have some almost 90 degree edges that will dig into the Frame Cover if you are gripping it when bending the joint. You can actually see the Frame Cover stretch marks.

Slide that ring onto the twisted part and push it all the way down so it runs up against the hip socket. You may need to adjust it a couple of times until you are satisfied with it.

Cut away all the excess. It is quite a bit.

Now assemble the ankle joint.

Pop it into the bottom of the leg frame.

Slide on Frame Cover (fat) number three.

It has to run up under more edges that are designed to hold it in place.

Push on two frame parts to hold that Frame Cover in place.

Just like with the previous Frame Covers, if you’ve got too much in there or it is not lined up correctly it will prevent those frame parts from closing together cleanly but this time you don’t have two armour parts going in to push them together so you’ll need to make sure the fit is correct.

Now twist up the end and slide on another ring.

Once again cut away the excess Frame Cover.

Now add two small red pieces to the sides of the knee.

After those are on you slide the two lower leg armour halves.

Into the front of these you plug in a small frame part and then add a thruster on top of that.

Then you add a small frame part to the outside of the leg and add a thruster there.

It can swivel slightly.

You are meant to put stickers inside all of the thrusters.

I’ll pass for now.

That’s one leg done!

I had one more leg to go and thought I would experiment a bit. I wanted to have more of the Frame Cover around the joint to see if it would bunch up differently and then I could compare that to the leg already assembled.

Here are both legs.

The differences in the Frame Covers will be discussed in the review. I’m still thinking (overthinking, most likely) what would be the best way to approach this.

The last thing to assemble on the naked MS are the side skirts. They assemble similar to the other skirts with the centre piece plugged onto pegs that allow it to spin completely around. These however, are white instead of blue.

So plug your leg sockets into the skirt frame.

Then add the side skirts.

When the legs are all straightened out and the front and rear skirts are flat look how precisely the side skirt fits into the gap.

Here’s the lower half.

Insert the Emergency Pod.

Open the cockpit hatch and drop the upper body onto the lower body.

Those things that looked like landing gears on the Emergency Pod actually slide right into grooves on the inside of the torso.

The connection is rock solid.

Behold. My creation.


I guess that means I’m half done now?

Phew. This is a journey.

23 Responses so far.

  1. fury-s12 says:

    Is it weird these frame covers are selling me on the kit its such an interesting idea

    • S2 says:

      Not weird at all. Builders want to experience new things. Those covers are definitely a new thing.

      • Job John says:

        Not QUITE brand new, though. You got the same parts with the 1/48 Ingram a bit back. And it was tricky there too.

        Still. Looked quite nice once they were on solid.

      • Damien p says:

        I’m looking at this build through your eyes, and all i can think of is heading to my local electrical components store and picking up some heat shrink tubing.. is that bad? A minor source of heat on a mg frame.. maybe.

  2. Syful says:

    what’s that plastic covering made of? I hope I can paint it over and not peel off.

  3. noob_sauce says:

    I read part 1 and 2 one after the other. I need a cigarette right now.

  4. Sablenk87 says:

    And now you’re showing off, again, hell Syd, that PG final battle Unicorn

  5. Papiyoh says:

    Hi Syd! Just wondering if it is still possible to complete the kit without using those frame covers?

    • S2 says:

      Yes, it is. And it’s probably also possible that you could work those covers into completely different kit.

  6. Jango says:

    you might already be aware but you didn’t rotate the pilot’s seat into an upright position when you put the emergency pod into the Gundam.

    • S2 says:

      That kind of stuff isn’t important for me. I’m going to be taking this kit apart and putting it back together likely multiple times. Rotating a seat that I won’t see isn’t a priority.

      • Jango says:

        ah! that makes sense. though if you’re going to be taking this apart alot then I’d be pretty worried about how those vinyl joint covers are gonna hold up. I’d imagine it would be best to save those for the final assembly.

      • S2 says:

        True. Fortunately for me, being in Japan, if I screw something up I can get a replacement. I know that’s not so easy for most everyone reading this blog.

      • Jango says:

        yeah I know what you meant. I live in the US and if I buy a kit and break something I either have to fix it myself or buy a new kit.

        it just seems like those covers would be hard to get back in place after they’ve already been cut.

    • Vincent says:

      You sure like nitpicking a lot huh, Jango.

  7. Brian says:

    I know you said the connection for the top half is rock solid, but what prevents it from being popped/lifted off?

  8. Qwert224 says:

    I guess if I wanted to topcoat, I should do it before putting on the armor pieces ?

  9. VisX says:

    I may be the only one not liking the look of this frame cover. I wonder if a (proper sized and colour, ribbed) cond0m will be a better alternative. It will be softer, about as thin, and look more like material that covers mechanical parts.

    This post is like a joke… but is not.

  10. Zenith says:

    I was wondering would it be easier to paint the kit before putting on the joint covers? or can you build it then take it apart again fine with out messing it up?

    • S2 says:

      taking it apart and putting on those joint covers would be pretty tricky given that you have to cut off the excess during the build and it won’t be there if you rebuild it.

Leave a Reply