Gaijin Gunpla

Didn’t have to wait long to get started on the MG F91 Ver. 2.0

The 2.0 comes in a big MG box but I’m familiar with the F91 and its size so I don’t expect it to take the same amount of time other big box Master Grade kits take.

We start off by placing the pilot into the clear cockpit. Once he’s sealed in there add some frame pieces to the bottom.

And that’s it for the cockpit section. That gets placed aside and you grab this runner.

Looks like a gold colour to me. Check out the manual.

It says it’s orange. Err…

The largest gold, err orange, part from that runner will fit into a frame part.

From some angles it’s tough to make out the orange.

Now leave that aside too and grab these parts.

You’re making one side of the chest with these pieces. This looks to be the shoulder peg.

Then the other side.

Shot of the shoulder articulation.

Now for more manual confusion.

Okay. I’m going to need both the A1 and A2 runners. I’ll look for those two.

Several moments later.

It turns out there are not two runners, but one.

With different designations on either end.

Take the assembly for the right side of the torso, slap a white part on the inside, and connect that to the center chest part.

You’ll have to line several areas up.

Then add the other side of the torso along with the cockpit assembly.

This is what we have so far.

Now grab the large white part for the collar and slide a small frame part along the two sections jutting out the front.

Add your first blue part onto the frame part.

Place that on top of the torso.

Now to add some small yellow parts.

I’ll need both #13 parts. One will fit into each of the blue armour parts that complete the side of the torso.

You have to line that yellow part a certain way to get it in correctly.

These go onto the torso at the same stage the neck goes on.

The back consists of a frame piece which has some movable arms plugged onto it.

The backpack construction starts with a large clear part onto which you plug four ‘orange’ and four frame parts.

You’ll plug that clear part into the large white piece which is then in turn attached to the back of the torso.

Hello, old friend.

Turn the page of the manual to continue the build.

The entire page, and some of the next, is for the head assembly. There are two heads! That explains it. I’ll start with the…

Non-transforming head.

I’ll need red parts so grab one of the F runners.

Being that there are two heads, it makes sense that the duplicated the red runner completely.

Small red chin piece inserts into facemask from the back then is plugged onto the frame.

Now I’ll need the even smaller yellow parts. #12.

One of these slides into either side of the frame piece.

You’ll put the side armour parts onto that.

Add your clear eye piece, and its sticker, and another frame part for the back.

A small sticker goes on the white section jutting out the back.

V fins are made up of these small yellow parts.

You plug these into the front of the head and add the red piece at the center.

You have to push with a little effort to insert it all the way.

However, I was reluctant to use too much pressure because I knew the V fins wouldn’t hold up. Even the manual implies as much.

Now for the fun part. Foreshadowing…

That very, very small, difficult to make out details on, clear part goes into the underside of the white part that is the top of the head.

It’s small.

Very small.

And because it is so small, and clear, it is quite difficult to make out details and edges and determine which side inserts into the white piece. Manual says to do it this way.

I’ll need to use tweezers to get such a small piece in there.

Oops, it was so small it just flew off the end of the tweezers and onto the floor.

Give me a second here.

5 minutes later.

I found it!

And now I start the process of determining the edges all over again. Once I figured out which way was up, or in this case which way was to be inserted into the white part, I marked it using a small piece of masking tape.

That really helped.

And I am not worried about the tape because a sticker goes on.

Hurray! I’ll have to do that whole thing one more time…

But before that, let’s finish the first head. Take your completed sections.

Put them together.

And there you go.

I love you, F91 head.

Let’s repeat that process.

Once the facemask is done you take some small white parts and add a little frame piece as a connector.

The other end of the frame piece inserts into a space at the back of the main head frame part.

A small frame part goes on overtop to hold them in there.

Little Medusa vibe going on.

Fold those sides in to make the facemask.

Add the larger side armour parts.

And now for that small clear part.

I made it much easier for myself this time by cutting the part off the runner including a large piece of the gate.

I can cut that away once the clear part is in its correct position.

Now more side panels. These ones have a very small frame piece inserted from the inside.

These snap onto the white parts you’ve already got on the head.

That looks like the first head except for the frame coloured vulcans.

Let’s check out the transforming gimmick. First step is to flip open the larger side panels.

Then flip out the smaller side panels and move the little frame connector piece towards the back before folding the panels back against the side of the head.

Here’s a half-and-half.

Here is the whole thing.

Choose your head and plop it onto your torso.

Oh yeah!

Categories: Builds, F91 Ver. 2.0, MG

2 Responses so far.

  1. Ooh, nice. Turns out I didn’t need to worry about the seam line for the opening faceplate since there are two heads provided. Looking forward to the next phases of this WIP. 😀

  2. Alberto from italy says:

    Am I the only guy here thinking that the whole new head gimmick is overcomplicated if compared to the head used in the previous kit? Ok, this is much more similar to what’s in the show, but the other worked perfectly with half the effort… And there was no need to paint the yellow vulcans, a thing I really hate!

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