Gaijin Gunpla

I think I’m pretty familiar with the Unicorn as a Master Grade kit. I’ve done a few.

But the MGEX Unicorn Gundam Ver. Ka is a different animal altogether. Not only does it take an LED sheet making it light up similar to the PG Unicorn (I’m guessing) but to do that it needs a whole new design. I’m not familiar with this new engineering so I’m actually quite excited to start on this kit.

Being a Ver. Ka helps too.

That is exciting. And that’s only the first page!

There’s a lot of building to get through to complete this but the whole thing starts with this.

At first glance I though this looked identical to the power box in the PG kit. However, looking back at that I see that this one takes three AA batteries whereas the PG kit’s LED took four.

And here is the crazy LED that Bandai have managed to engineer into this build.

You’re advised to test out the lighting before actually using this as part of the Unicorn build so here’s how it connects.

Green – check.

There’s more to it than that but I want to leave some surprises.

But for those who can’t wait here’s a spoiler.

There are three of these LEDs as well.


Here is a word of warning from Bandai.

That makes sense. Oh, wait. Now that I’ve done that I’m told to take it all back apart so I can start the build. Taking those tiny connectors apart is not easy!

Let’s begin.

All your base!

The On/Off and mode button on the power supply will be hidden on the MGEX. It stays behind a door.

And for some reason you have to put the corner feet on the base.

Was that really necessary?

Here is where the power supply fits in.

It will mount onto those poles.

Then you’ll fit the larger LED cable out of the back.

The three smaller wires are for the Shield Bases and each one has a spot.

The connector will fit into a spot designed just for it.

With the wires in place you continue on with the base. You’ll fit these parts first.

Then you attach the large LED connector there and run the wire right through?

Yes, you do!

That wasn’t so bad.

Oh. I have to check it now.



Add the small lever which is the locking mechanism.

More checking!

You can see there are two frame parts to add there which allow you to connect it to the base and then you can choose where on the base, or rather how near or far to the centre, you want it to be.

I don’t know the advantages or disadvantages to any position as of yet so I put it about midway.

Now for the three Shield Bases.

Make sure I’ve got everything for the three.

Add the piece that will connect to the shield when all is said and done.

Into that you fit the LED and then close it up.

At this point the wire is meant to come out of the top.

Add the lower sections of the Shield Base arm.

Then bend them as far as they will go.

Now you run a wire through there?

Yes, you do!

Once the wire is in you extend it fully.

You’ll then run the wire through a hole in the base of the Shield Base and plug the arm into the other hole.

When it’s plugged in you rotate it 180 degrees.

Now you’ve still got quite a bit of wire to deal with. Bandai’s plan for that is to spool it onto this part.

First run the wire through it and then plug it onto the bottom making sure the wire fits into the recessed area.

Just like this.

I think mine looks about right.

Now I’ll hold that in the right position and wrap the wire around five times.

Like so.

Now push that spool part all the way down and reel it to bring in the rest of the wire.

There’s a small slot on the edge of the base which takes the wire.

That’s how it is meant to be stored.

Once it’s in place you rotate the arm back 180 degrees to where it was before you starting spooling wire and then you insert it into one of the three spot in the back of the base.

And there it is.

So what happens next with these Shield Base LEDs? Do I connect them to the base?

The answer to that comes near the end of the manual.

When you’re doing this.

I’m not at that point yet so I’ll just stop here.

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