Gaijin Gunpla

I’ve put in a good first session on the MGEX Unicorn Gundam Ver. Ka and only have completed the stand and the LED power unit. That’s a good thing because I think I’ll be needing to test out the LED sheet regularly as I progress with the build.

Before construction of the Unicorn itself can begin you need to prepare the LED sheet.

Uh.. folding some lines ‘mountain’ and the others ‘valley’… I’m having flashbacks to learning Origami with the Japanese preschoolers I taught English to. My memory is vague but I don’t recall being particularly successful. Unless you want a throwing star. I can fold a wicked throwing star.

So here’s the sheet.

First step involves folding around the connector and folding over a couple of the LEDs in the middle.


I also have to fold the bent end over so it’s straight.


Now let’s incorporate that into the chest.

Right away I’m told to use the clear parts on the K runners.

They will snap onto a frame part that looks to be the bottom half of the chest.

The build also uses the milky white runner as well.

Fold the two K clear parts in towards the center and then slide the milky L part overtop.

Once the whitish part is on turn the K parts outwards.

Then add another K part to each K part!

Set that aside for a moment and prepare the pilot’s chair. That is a frame part on a milky white piece.

Now I am given a choice.

If you want your pilot viewed as piloting the Unicorn in Unicorn Mode then you want to add piece B4 to the pilots chair. If you want the pilot viewed as piloting the Unicorn in Destroy Mode then the part to use is B3.

What to do?

Considering a like Unicorn Mode better I was already leaning towards part B4. I then thought about how I’d often be displaying this piece on the MS Base which the manual tells you to use in Unicorn Mode. Thus, Unicorn Mode Pilot viewing it is.

Now I involve the LED strip by running it through a gap in the bottom of the cockpit.

This is one of the two that you folded over before the build began.

You’ll set it in so the second LED on the sheet is the one used in this section leaving the first sticking out the back to be incorporated later.

Now add the front of the cockpit to seal you pilot inside.

Once that’s on bend the LED strip forwards so it fits in place again the front of the torso.

I think I got it..?

You’ll add a frame part to either side at the bottom.

You then have a frame par that wraps around that will need to go on from above.

The manual says I need to follow these steps.

At this stage I’d like to say that it is very hard to get the LED strip in the right place while trying to add pieces and take pictures at the same time. I’ll do my best.

This wasn’t easy though the manual tells you how it is meant to go on.

when trying to fit it on I couldn’t get it around the middle and so I tried to push the two parts in while keeping it open so the part had somewhere to go. That’s when it exploded apart.

I needed to put it back together but did so keeping the latest part in place so I wouldn’t have to try to drop it around again once I rebuilt what I’d already done.

The LED sheet also came out of its spot when what I had assembled came apart in my hands. I was half-convinced that I ruined the LED at that moment but had no other option than to press on and find out later. It is not like I can easily get a replacement sheet if I did indeed wreck it.

Once I had it back together I had to add a white part to the front below the cockpit.

This was so hard to get on! I couldn’t get it to snap onto the pegs it needs to be on. Because the torso can extend there when it transforms it can also tilt. Add to that the little bits of frame that are meant to stick through the small holes on either end and there was a lot I was dealing with and worrying about. To get it on securely I had to use my nippers and cut away small bits of the connecting pegs similar to what you’d do if you were doing the build with the plan to take it back together. Eventually I got it on to stay.

once that’s on I had to place the LED sheet along the back and get it held in position by putting on two of the clear K parts above he cockpit.

Did I mention it’s hard to photograph this build?

Manual says to have two LEDs in place like so.

This confused me slightly because I thought I had put one of those in the bottom of the torso at the start of the cockpit build.

I guess I just do my best.

Now bend the LED sheet in several places to get it in position for later on.

After it’s bent you add a frame part for the base of the neck.

Do it like this, it says.

So I did.

Now to prepare a section to go on the top of the torso.

You’ve got some more manipulation of the chest to do to get that on properly.

Okay then.

Check to see the LED is in position as in this image.

I think so.

Now for the familiar pop up shoulders.

They attach to a clear part and sit atop the chest.

And the familiar opening chest parts use the milky white parts.

Fit those on then add the armour part that covers most of the top and also the one making up most of the back.

Some armour goes on the sides now.

And finally the cockpit hatch.

Now give it a squeeze.

That’s right.

Man, does that ever look good. Has it got more detail than the PG?

It just might. I guess we each have to judge for ourselves.

After finishing the chest I still felt I had some time.

So why not?

Snap the first waist frame part into the bottom of the chest and then fold that double-barreled section of the LED strip into it.

Once you’ve got it lined up plug on a clear frame part to hold it all in.

Two of these for the centre.

That and a white part then fit into a frame part.

Into the other end of that frame part will fit the LED sheet connector.

Lay the sheet in there like so and close it up.

Now to add the armour for the top front both top and bottom.

Then plug the waist into the chest.

A white armour part then cover up the back but leaves the connection exposed.

Now we’re going to build some of the hip joint frame around that LED sheet.

Carefully lay the strip in between the parts so it’s not pinched.

Two more parts then go on the same way.

Repeat for the other side.

But we’re not done. There’s a clear part that needs to slide on as well.

It was when I was finally done both the chest and waist that I connected it to the base to determine if I’d done any damage to the LED sheet at the start of this session.

Looks good to me.

Looks very good.

2 Responses so far.

  1. Jason Reynolds says:

    I found the torso section with the K2 parts to be a headache. When I tried to extend the torso, after completing the model, they popped out of place and I have never fully gotten them to sit in there from what I can tell. Real PITA.

  2. Damien says:

    It never looked like the legs or the arm LED ribbon was going to go in the right way when I tried it. But it did. And I spent a whole day folding the ribbon at those points. It never broke / frayed.

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